2025 has been a year of profound contrasts—navigating the lows of heartache while finding solace in the beauty of the vineyard. In my search for silver linings, I found a new generation of winemakers who treat the vine as both a sanctuary and a laboratory. A multicultural, multigenerational collective of professionals who are bold enough to trust their intuition while remaining tethered to the essential values of family and land.
This year’s obligatory ‘Best Of’ list is a bit different. It’s about the human element behind the glass, the makers who are breaking the mold, and the stories that touched our hearts when we needed it most.
Listing by Wine Region:
Alsace
For a long time, Alsace was viewed as a region of tradition, defined by noble white varieties and somewhat rigid sweetness levels. But lately, Alsace is undergoing a massive shift fueled by a new generation, climate change, and a long-overdue recognition of its red wines.
The Red Revolution (Pinot Noir Goes Grand Cru): The biggest news in Alsace is that Pinot Noir has finally shed its table wine status. For decades, only white grapes were allowed in the region’s 51 prestigious Grand Cru sites. As of late 2024, three Grand Cru sites—Hengst, Kirchberg de Barr, and now Vorbourg—are officially permitted to produce Grand Cru Pinot Noir. These aren’t the thin, pale reds of the past. Thanks to warmer summers and more ambitious winemaking (influenced by Burgundy), Alsatian Pinot Noir is now structured, deep, and age-worthy, and often half the price of a comparable bottle from Burgundy.
The Move to Bone Dry (The End of Confusion): One of the biggest frustrations for Alsace drinkers was not knowing if a bottle would be bone-dry or sugary sweet. New regulations now require labels to clearly state the sweetness level (Sec, Demi-Sec, Moelleux, or Doux) or use a 1–5 scale.
Organic & Biodynamic Leadership: Alsace is a world leader in sustainable viticulture. Over 40% of the region is now certified organic or biodynamic—the highest percentage in France. Then there are low intervention styles. And skin contact wines have moved from being a curiosity to a staple, because the aromatic Alsatian grapes (Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris) make for incredibly floral, spicy, and textured orange wines.
Crémant d’Alsace: The Champagne Challenger: With Champagne prices skyrocketing, Crémant d’Alsace has exploded in popularity. With one-third of the region’s production, Winemakers are releasing more Zero Dosage (no added sugar). Single-vineyard sparklers that offer serious complexity for a fraction of the cost of Champagnes.
Alsace is a region of multigenerational family estates (some dating back to the 1600s) that are now being led by young, confident winemakers. They are navigating the finances and logistics of farming diverse plots while paying homage to a heritage that is both French and German in soul.
Domaine Loew
My most educational and enlightening tasting of 2025 almost didn’t happen. Between the complicated logistics of Northern Alsace and a tight schedule, reaching Westhoffen seemed impossible. Perhaps the stars aligned, or perhaps it was simply Etienne Loew’s penchant for risk; he graciously agreed to a last minute rendezvous as we transitioned from Colmar toward the Mosel.
There is a remarkable honesty in everything Etienne Loew does. Our meeting was spontaneous and unscripted, yet it resonated with more depth than any formal tasting could. The wines are vividly alive, offering a crystal-clear glimpse into the heart of Alsace.
Etienne, an agricultural engineer, he took over his family’s 18th century farm in 1996 and transitioned the estate to Biodynamics (Demeter certified). For him, this wasn’t a mystical choice; it was an engineering one. Etienne doesn’t treat his vines with a blanket approach. He manages a high-complexity geological mosaic across five distinct villages, producing wines that are as diverse as the tectonic fault lines they farm.
Etienne’s wines possess a vibrant, cool climate energy even in warmer years. The acidity is so well-integrated that the wine feels seamless. Speaking of acidity, Westhoffen is a place where you can taste the geology in every sip. It changes its character with every shift in the soil profile.
The Muschelkalk and Oolitic limestones produce a racy, vertical acidity. In contrast, the Marl nutrient dense clay offers an acidity that is broad, beautifully wrapped in the wine’s own texture. Then there is the Sandstone, that focuses on aromatics and lift; it is the most graceful and delicate expression of freshness in the region. Add the Vosges fault where different eras of rock are pushed together, a vine has access to a much wider spectrum of minerals, that translates to complexity.
Eitenne’s playful character is seen best through his label “All You Need is Loew“. Omagy – O = orange, Ma = macération and marl, Gy = gypsum and Gewurztraminer. Candied fruit, spice, sapidity. Brilliant in every sense. Then there is is ‘Vérité (Truth), Sylvaner born from 80 yr old vines. Creamy, soft, and incredibly elegant. It doesn’t shout with power—it whispers with complexity. A ripe, savory spice profile layered with anise and cardamom. The Ostenberg 2023 is a siren of a Riesling. It is ravishingly ripe, bursting with a vivid fruit profile that commands the palate with immediate presence. This is a wine of quiet confidence and effortless poise—a definitive highlight of my 2025 travels.
Following closely in Etienne’s footsteps is his daughter, who clearly possesses the same creative panache as her father. Her debut release, ‘Mathilde,’ was nothing short of a revelation. A stunning debut that signaled the rise of a new talent.
Vin Schaal
A Marriage of Terroir. What happens when an Alsace native and a Burgundian winemaker join forces? You get the most focused, dry, and electric white and red wine in the region.
Grand Cru Rosacker is best known for one of the great dry Rieslings in the world -Trimbach’s Clos Sainte Hune. (Trimbach chose not to put the “Grand Cru Rosacker” label on the bottle, preferring the historical name of the lieu-dit. The defining characteristic of Rosacker is its soil – limestone, which sets it apart from the granite-heavy or sandstone slopes common in other parts of Alsace.
While neighboring Crus might produce more opulent wines, Rosacker is famous for its purity and vertical tension. The magnesium-rich limestone results in wines with a powerful, ripe acidity, built for the long haul, often peaking 10–15 years after the vintage. Both the Riesling and Gewurztraminer boasted mouthwatering acidity, intense fruit, and spice.
In an era where Burgundy prices have climbed into the realm of the unattainable, Sophie’s Pinot Noirs offer a vital alternative, especially the ones looking for wine by the glass option. They capture that tantalizing, ethereal soul of the grape—the vibrant red fruit and the silken texture we all crave—without the prohibitive cost. It’s a win for the ‘smart money’ collector: a wallet-friendly entry into high-fidelity Pinot Noir that refuses to compromise on quality.
PS: They also make wine in South Africa.
The Mosel Visionaries
In 2025, the Mosel is no longer just the land of sweet Riesling; it is a high-stakes arena for Heroic Viticulture where a new generation is redefining what these steep, slate slopes can produce.
The Rise of “Trocken” (Dry) Dominance: For decades, the Mosel was synonymous with Kabinett and Spätlese (sweet styles). While those remain the crown jewels, the market has shifted aggressively toward bone-dry Riesling.Winemakers are chasing high-acid, mineral-driven profiles and treating their dry wines with the same reverence previously reserved for the sweet ones.
The Red Secret – Pinot Noir in Slate: Perhaps the most shocking shift for traditionalists is the explosion of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Red grapes were actually banned in the Mosel until the late 1980s.Because of climate change, the Mosel is now warm enough to ripen Pinot Noir perfectly. Growing Pinot in blue and red slate creates a wine that is distinct from Burgundy—lighter, more ethereal, and intensely floral.
The New Guard & Neglected Slopes: Working the Mosel’s 60-degree inclines is grueling, and for a while, many steep vineyards were being abandoned because they were too expensive to farm. Young winemakers are moving in (like Stefan Steinmetz). They are buying these impossible plots because the old vines are incredible.
If Domaine Loew is about the geological mosaic of Alsace, Christopher Loewen treats his centenarian, ungrafted vines like heritage technology, creating unicorn wines that balance record breaking acidity with a rich, silky finesse. While Stefan Steinmetz, is a vineyard archaeologist whose latest focus is forgotten, steep impossible slopes in Middle Mosel.
Weingut Carl Löwen
As a mother, there is a profound, unique joy in watching your son pour his life’s work into a craft and seeing that effort blossom into success. Though Christopher was traveling, his mother was the most gracious of hosts, eventually joined by his father for a wonderful afternoon. I hold the utmost respect for the women who anchor these family estates; those mothers who work tirelessly to nurture both their children and their dreams. They are the silent architects of success, proving that behind every great achievement stands a woman of unwavering strength and dedication.
The history of the Loewen family is a classic story of the Mosel—a transition from working the land for others to becoming masters of their own destiny. Now 33, Christopher Löwen is the definitive young gun of the Mosel. He’s been working alongside his father since 2012, building a reputation for high-tension Rieslings that have earned a cult-like status. Demand is so fierce that the estate’s top cuvées are frequently spoken for well before their official release.
Christopher manages 18 hectares across some of the Mosel’s most prestigious (and steepest) sites. His approach to Riesling is deeply rooted in vine age. Young vines bring the lift and fruit for his classic Kabinett and Spätlese, while entrusting his legendary old vines with the drier, more serious expressions.
Carl Loewen 1896: We are witnessing the birth of a unicorn wine. The Maximin Herrenberg is one of the world’s oldest Riesling vineyards, with vines dating back to 1896, planted on red slate. However, the output is strictly limited by the ‘human-hour’ constraints of such a difficult site. The red slate, denser and warmer than its neighbors, lends the fruit an opulent richness. An old basket press and zero automation results in a wine boasting haunting perfume of apples and pears, where record-breaking acidity is so perfectly woven into the silky texture and subtle sweetness that it feels weightless. It is a masterpiece of finesse over force.
Weingut Steinmetz
Stefan & his wife Sammie (fellow Floridian) are part of the “new guard” of the Mosel—winemakers who are returning to traditional, natural methods to find more clarity and uniqueness in the glass.
While many producers blend their grapes, Stefan is famous for producing dozens of micro-bottlings from tiny parcels. He wants you to taste the difference between Blue, Grey, and Red Slate.
While I spent the afternoon like a child ransacking Santa’s goodie bag—thoroughly enchanted by the GG and Feinherb whites—it was Stefan’s red wines that truly leveled me. He treats his Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) like his Riesling—planting them in steep, slate-heavy sites. The result is a red wine with unexpected depth, purity, light color, but intense sapidity (umami) and spice.
2015 Steinmetz und Hermann “Urziger Wurzgarten” Riesling Alte Reben Mosel: A standout collaboration where Christian Hermann’s terroir meets Stefan Steinmetz’s cellar magic. These 80-100 year old ungrafted vines produced a harvest of 100° Oechsle. It is an aromatic explosion—think honey, mushrooms and hazelnuts—driven by a juicy acidity that keeps the palate electric. Truly fabulous.
The tasting was both a revelation and a homecoming, a moment that underscored the incredible range of the Riesling grape. No other variety commands the space between ethereal finesse and concentrated force with such quiet confidence. It was a masterclass in versatility, reminding me why this grape remains the ultimate storyteller of the soil.
Shh! It’s a secret. There is a quiet exclusivity at the Steinmetz estate that rivals the partnered allocation systems of Bordeaux or Champagne. Stefan has curated his own private tier—bottles that never see a retail shelf. These are restricted, highly coveted releases; they are the Mosel’s equivalent of an invitation-only membership, reserved for the few who know where to look.
The Portugese Pioneers
I used to think Italy had a monopoly on native grapes, but it’s thrilling to discover the rich diversity of Portugal’s indigenous varieties. For too long, Portugal’s reputation was limited to fortified wines and robust reds, but today’s young winemakers are rewriting that narrative with their exciting, modern interpretations of traditional grapes. These innovators are driven by a deep love for their land, heritage, and craft, resulting in wines that are both authentic and avant-garde. I wonder what opportunities will arise for these pioneering winemakers, and how will they shape the country’s vinous future?
Hugo Mendes
Hugo Mendes doesn’t just make wine; he engineers it with a philosopher’s soul. Our conversation kicked off with the standard diagnostic: Tell me about yourself. My answer – writer, educator, triggered the engineer in him. What followed was a candid airing of grievances—a high-level audit of the industry’s gatekeepers, from journalists to sommeliers. It was a masterclass in problem-solving that was only interrupted by the one thing more compelling than the debate: the wine itself.
Hugo is obsessed with proving that Portugal’s lesser-known grapes can be world-class. He focuses on often-overlooked regions, showing that they can produce wines with as much place and character as the Douro or Alentejo. He chooses spontaneous fermentation and avoids the masking effects of heavy oak or aggressive extraction. His secret to complexity? He picks fruit at various stages of ripeness—fermenting them as one for seamless integration. He treats his reds like whites to preserve brightness and tension, chasing a wine that has curves and layers.
Hugo Mendes Curtimenta 2023: Meet the wine that redefined Arinto for me.’ Curtimenta’ means skin-fermented, and Hugo takes a raw, unfiltered approach—no temperature control and 30 days of skin contact. Arinto’s signature citrus edge is transformed here into a savory, fragrant tapestry of stone fruit and white flowers. It’s light, vibrant (11.5% ABV), and utterly captivating.
Did you know Hugo pioneered Portugal’s first crowdfunding campaign for wine production, introducing a groundbreaking concept he called ‘patrons’. By offering consumers the chance to pre-purchase his wine at a discounted price, he effectively secured funding for his independent venture. This innovative approach not only succeeded but also challenged the conventional wisdom that winemaking requires substantial upfront capital, opening doors for other small producers. Bravo!!
Marcio Lopes
Márcio Lopes is one of Portugal’s most exciting new generation winemakers, known for his restless energy and his commitment to reviving forgotten vineyards. What I found most impressive about Marcio was his profound love and respect he has for his land and cultural heritage. This devotion is paired with an inherent curiosity and enthusiasm for innovation, to craft wines that are groundbreaking in terms of balance, flavor and agebility. Bravo!
My fondest memory captures the essence of what makes the wine world so special—the fact that the best bottles are often just the catalyst for genuine human connection and hospitality. An unscripted evening at his family table—surrounded by his daughters, enjoying a meal prepared by his talented wife, and diving into deep conversation over a series of remarkable wines. It was a masterclass in hospitality and the true spirit of Portuguese winemaking.
Lopes began his career as an agricultural engineer before training under the legendary Anselmo Mendes, the master of Alvarinho. He later spent time in Australia, working harvests in both the warm Rutherglen region and the cool-climate island of Tasmania. This “world view” allowed him to return to Portugal in 2010 with a unique perspective.
His pet projects:
- Pequenos Rebentos (Vinho Verde) Meaning “Little Shoots,” this project focuses on the granite-rich soils of Monção and Melgaço.
- Proibido & Permitido (Douro Superior) Marcio’s focus is on old field blends and elegant white wines, particularly the Rabigato grape.
- Quinta do Pombal: His estate in the Douro where he experiments with recovering nearly extinct indigenous grape varieties.
It can’t be a mere coincidence. More often than not, the people behind the world’s most interesting bottles are former medics, lawyers, and engineers. There is a clear bridge between the rigorous demands of those fields and the complex, obsessive nature of making great wine.
Constantino Ramos
Constantino Ramos is widely regarded as one of the most promising flying winemakers in Portugal. Much like Márcio Lopes, he is a history nut and a protégé of the legendary Anselmo Mendes ( head winemaker) for 9 yrs before focusing on his own project.
Interestingly, Ramos was originally a pharmacist before deciding to follow his passion for viticulture, and today not only is he executing wines of uncompromising character and depth, he has launched his very own Enoturismo – Casa de Nabais. For Constantino isn’t just a hotel with a vineyard; it’s a laboratory for exploring the potential of the Lima valley while providing a high-level hospitality experience that he and his wife (who was so instrumental in his career shift) deeply value.
The Juca range is one of Constantino Ramos’s most personal projects, serving as a heartfelt tribute and a study of historical Portuguese winemaking. Juca is a tribute to Constantino’s wife’s grandfather, who provided significant support during the early stages of his winemaking journey. The project is rooted in the village of Riba de Mouro (Monção), a place with a medieval winemaking history. Constantino uses this label to honor the community and the traditional styles of the region.
Juca Tinto (Red): Designed as a luxury version of the rustic, dark reds that historically dominated the Vinho Verde region. A traditional field blend of Vinhão, Brancelho (Alvarelhão), Borraçal, Espadeiro, and Caíño Longo, sourced from centennial (100-year-old) vineyards in Riba de Mouro at high altitudes (up to 400m). Intense, concentrated, yet it maintains a low alcohol abv (10-11%) & high energy.
Juca Loureiro (White): While Constantino is famous for Alvarinho, his Juca white focuses on 100% Loureiro grape from a single vineyard planted in 1989 near the Lima river. Vibrant, unoaked, and aromatic. Constantino uses a short skin maceration (4 hours) to extract florals before fermenting in stainless steel to retain purity. And the sapidity! Lip smacking!.
Zafirah: While the world knows this region for Alvarinho (Vinho Verde), Constantino uses Zafirah to prove that its high-altitude red field blends are equally world-class. Zafirah is a tribute to resurrect the lost red wines of Monção e Melgaço. Back then, Monção reds were so highly regarded that they were exported to England as high-quality substitutes for Burgundy.
It requires immense technical control to pick grapes early enough to keep the alcohol low (10.5 – 11.5%) without the wine tasting green or unripe. Constantino makes Zafirah like a white wine. Instead of weeks on the skins (which creates heavy tannins), he macerates the grapes for only 24 to 48 hours. And the result: the wine has the color of a dark rosé or a light claret offering the freshness of a white wine with the aromatic soul of a red. Explosive fresh red berries, layered with spice, it is light body, racy, and irresistibly bright.
As an educator, I look for logic; as a writer, I look for the heart. These winemakers delivered both—proving that the most seamless wines are the result of the most rigorous integrity. They have taught me that whether you are farming 130-year-old vines in the Mosel or rethinking Arinto in Lisboa, the best results happen when you have the courage to start from scratch.
Here’s to the people who solve the world’s problems, one “curvy,” “layered,” and perfectly integrated glass at a time. 🥂
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