After a month of navigating India’s (Delhi) vibrant culinary landscape, I’ve spent a significant amount of time behind the menus of Delhi’s bars and restaurants. My approach to a “school night” is usually pragmatic: I stick to a local lager. There is a simple logic to it—the carbonation is refreshing, the temperature is crisp, and the lower ABV serves as a functional palate cleanser against the intensity of Indian spices.
However, when I’ve ventured beyond the safety of a sealed bottle, the experience has been disheartening. I’ve repeatedly encountered what I can only call cocktail fraud.
I don’t say this lightly; identifying spirits is literally my profession. While studying for the coveted and arduous WSET Diploma, training went far beyond blind-tasting wines.
The curriculum required a mastery of both theory and blind sensory analysis across the entire spectrum of global spirits—whisky, gin, tequila, and rum. To pass, one must be able to peel back the layers of a liquid to identify:
- The Raw Material: Is the backbone of this spirit malted barley, potato, rice, or grape?
- The Geographic “Fingerprint”: Identifying the country of origin and the specific style dictates by its climate and aging process.
- Style: Is it blended scotch, single malt, Irish or American whiskey?
Professional Disconnect
Imagine my frustration when, in the heart of Delhi’s upscale nightlife, the profile of a premium spirit simply didn’t match the label. Don’t get me wrong: the hospitality scene in Delhi is visually and conceptually breathtaking. From the stunning, vibrant colors of the pours to the brilliant way they incorporate indigenous Indian spices and local spirits, the aesthetic experience is top-tier.
But for someone with my background, presentation isn’t a substitute for integrity.
The “fraud” I’ve encountered generally falls into two categories:
- Dilution: Cocktails built with significantly less volume masking the lack of spirit with excessive syrups or citrus.
- Counterfeiting: The more systemic issue of “refilled bottles,” where a premium brand’s exterior hides a lower-quality fake spirit inside.
For a professional, the pursuit of a good drink isn’t just a preference—it’s a sensory autopsy. I have a particular obsession with Campari. I admire the tension between its vibrant, herbal complexity and that unapologetic, bracing bitterness. Whether it’s Campari Soda, a classic Negroni, or a Spritz, I will drink it in every form.
The Red Flag: Out of Stock or Outright Fake: Imagine my disbelief when, at a high-end establishment, I was told Campari was out of stock—despite it being prominently displayed on the menu. Or worse, the times I was served a drink that claimed to be ‘Campari.’ Serving fake Campari isn’t just a supply issue; it’s an insult to the guest’s palate.
The Beer Dilemma: Bottles vs. Taps: My suspicion doesn’t stop at the spirits shelf. Even the beer scene has been a minefield.
- The Bottle Gamble: While certain commercial brands remained safe, others were inconsistent—tasting flat, oxidized, or simply “off” despite being sealed.
- The Draught Culprits: The worst offenders, however, are the local breweries and bars selling beer on tap. There is a glaring lack of consistency in carbonation and flavor.
Professional Perspective: As a specialist, I find the lack of transparency in the “on-tap” sector alarming. I would love nothing more than to send a series of these “house brews” for a lab analysis to disclose their actual ABV content and the integrity of their ingredients.
A Call for Accountability in Delhi
My month in India has been a culinary revelation, but the beverage program in many bars feels like a shadow game. For an industry that prides itself on hospitality, the widespread presence of diluted spirits and substandard draught beer is a systemic failure. This experience raises a critical question about the integrity of the hospitality, supply chain in rapidly growing markets.
While the flavors of India are world-class, the bar for spirits integrity still has a long way to climb to match the expertise of the international community. In a world of “craft” and “premium” labels, the most valuable ingredient a bar can offer is actually quite simple: honesty.
For me, a cocktail is an exercise in technical honesty. When I order a Negroni, I’m looking for that specific, bitter-sweet structural harmony. When the “fake spirit” issue arises, that harmony is shattered. No amount of stunning presentation or Indian-inspired storytelling can fix a drink made with fraudulent ingredients.
The same applies to beer. I see beautiful breweries with incredible interior design, yet the liquid on tap lacks the CO2 stability or the correct ABV profile. I’m not just there for the vibe; I’m there for the chemistry.
Because I prioritize what’s inside the glass over the décor, my recommendations for Delhi focus on bars where the artistry is matched by rigorous sourcing and technical precision. These are the spots where the spirit matches the label:
Sidecar (GK II): Sidecar is an institution for a reason. It’s one of the few places where you can trust that the “premium” spirit on the label is exactly what’s in your glass. Their bar program is deeply intellectual, often using local Indian ingredients but treating them with classic international techniques.
Townhall: In the heart of Khan Market, Town Hall is a venue that manages to balance high-concept artistry with the technical execution I look for. It is one of the few places where the cocktail program feels as deliberate as the kitchen’s output.
Professional Tip for Delhi:
When in doubt, stick to the 5 star hotels such as Oberoi. The Taj, Leela Palace. In a city where bottle-refilling can be an issue, these top-tier heritage hotels have the strictest inventory controls in the country.
Until next time, have a delicious day!
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